Whalers’ Great Route trail race: Faial’s whaling history and culture
From the very first step of the Whalers’ Great Route trail race, I felt like I was running through pages of Azorean history. This wasn’t just another trail event—it was a visceral encounter with the island of Faial’s deep-rooted connection to the ocean, whaling heritage, and cultural resilience. Each ascent, viewpoint, and coastal descent told a story, echoing the legacy of the whalers who once braved the Atlantic from this volcanic gem in the Azores.
Running through time: a route marked by history
Before diving into the race itself, it’s worth understanding where we are running. Faial, a small island in the central group of the Azores, might seem unassuming at first glance. However, its past is anything but quiet. From the 18th to the early 20th century, Faial played a pivotal role in the global whaling industry. Entire communities depended on the sea, and whaling shaped the economy, identity, and even the architecture of the island.
As I climbed the lush green trails and looked down on the Atlantic, I couldn’t help but imagine the lookout points once used by whalers to spot sperm whales. Many of the current aid stations are located near these old vigias—stone huts where spotters once scanned the horizon. The Whalers’ Great Route trail race literally follows their footsteps, making it a unique opportunity to merge physical endurance with historical reflection.
The race: more than a challenge
Organized every year in late spring, the Whalers’ Great Route trail race offers several distances, but the long course is where history and challenge truly intertwine. Spanning over 45 kilometers and boasting significant elevation gain, this route connects key historical locations—from old whaling ports to forgotten villages tucked into the hillsides.
What sets this race apart isn’t just the technical terrain or the panoramic views of neighboring islands like Pico or São Jorge. Instead, it’s the intentional weaving of culture into the event. At every checkpoint, local volunteers shared not just water and food, but also stories—sometimes through songs, sometimes through brief tales of their grandfathers who sailed the seas in search of whales.
In my case, hearing a local elder recount how his father built whaleboats by hand made the next climb feel like a pilgrimage. These stories give the Whalers’ Great Route trail race its soul.
Learning on the move: whaling museums and sea echoes
Although I came to Faial to run, I quickly realized that I had to stay to learn. Before race day, I visited the Scrimshaw Museum and the Porto Pim Whale Factory Museum. Both offered me a deeper understanding of the risks, skills, and culture surrounding the whaling era. The contrast between the brutality of the hunt and the artisanal beauty of whale bone carvings was stark.
These insights enriched my race experience. As I passed the crumbling remains of old slipways where whaleboats were launched, I now knew their purpose and legacy. The race route isn’t a random line on a map—it’s curated to teach, to remember, and to honor.
Even the rhythmic sound of the ocean against the basalt cliffs seemed to echo the past. There were moments when I felt as though I wasn’t alone on the trail, as if the footsteps of past generations ran with me, silent and proud.
Sustainability and memory: running with conscience
Today, Faial no longer depends on whaling—thankfully. Instead, it champions marine conservation and sustainable tourism. This transformation adds another layer of depth to the Whalers’ Great Route trail race. By running it, we aren’t glorifying the past; rather, we’re acknowledging it and celebrating the island’s evolution.
Race organizers partner with local environmental groups to promote responsible trail use and limit impact on sensitive areas. Moreover, part of the event’s proceeds support cultural preservation projects, such as restoring old whaling lookout towers or funding educational programs.
For us runners, that means we don’t just take from the trail—we give back. In fact, I found myself stopping to pick up small bits of trash, not out of obligation, but respect.
Post-race joy: music, community and caldeirada
Crossing the finish line in Horta, surrounded by cheering locals and fellow runners, was emotional. But the real celebration began afterward. Local music, traditional dishes like caldeirada de peixe (a flavorful fish stew), and endless stories filled the square.
Even then, the Whalers’ Great Route trail race continued teaching me. As I listened to a fado singer describe the longing of sailors and the strength of women left behind, I understood that the race is more than physical. It’s a cultural embrace—a way to feel the heartbeat of Faial through every muscle and memory.
Final thoughts: why this race matters
In a world flooded with ultra events, few races manage to deliver more than just a medal and a Strava segment. The Whalers’ Great Route trail race does so much more. It invites you to feel history under your feet, to breathe in the culture with each climb, and to carry the stories of an island in your heart.
If you’re a trail runner who seeks meaning beyond miles, mark this race on your calendar. Not only will your legs be challenged, but your mind and spirit will be enriched by the legacy of the Azores. And as you descend the final stretch toward the Atlantic, you might just hear a whisper of the past in the wind—a reminder that running can connect us to more than nature; it can connect us to memory.
